silverback gorillas

Hello again from Africa. Or better yet, Jambo from the land of endless maize fields, dusty, hot and crowded transportation, giggling children with heart-melting smiles, big plates of posho, matooke and gnut paste... all amidst the colorful and vibrant fabrics and people that paint these beautiful countries we have been enjoying.

Rob and I have been away from the blog and computers, and since then have left Uganda and been adventuring across Tanzania. I'm going to take us back to where we left off: departing, and most importantly surviving, the nile. That should be a once in a lifetime experience, and I have somehow managed to come out alive twice. I probably owe that to the extra prayers that my mom throws up when I'm in Africa.

Back to the gorillas. I think this has been one the best highlights from the trip. It all started when we were ready for our gorilla guide/driver, who we were supposed to meet at 6.30 a.m., at our hotel in Kampala. A couple blog posts, many games of rumi, and a long-breakfast later, we were greeted by Geoffrey at 11.30 a.m.  This is how Africa rolls. Time is relative, so you learn to embrace it. For a punctual, and some might even say... type-a... person like myself, Africa time and the hakuna matata mentality, is actually quite freeing. I actually love it, and there is something to be said for their freedom with time.

So, Geoffrey was our driver from Kampala to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. An estimated drive time of generally 11 hours. For Geoffrey, this was 9 hours, including our 1 hour hold-up due to some road work. So, more like 8 hours because this man can drive. FAST. I think my internal organs and brain were bounced and shaken more than they ever have. Driving fast on Uganda's 'highway' is like riding a flying and broken roller coaster that has millions or large and small rocks/boulders jostling you around. But he got us there quickly, and it turns out we love Geoffrey. He is awesome, and we plan to host him in our home in Seattle in September. Rob is most excited to take him to see snow in the mountains. Geoffrey below:

We arrive at Bugoba Rest Camp in the evening, and are graciously welcomed into what I can only describe as an amazing African bungalow nestled in the Bwindi rainforest. With HOT water and legit showers. Wow, what a treat. So, the next morning we were clean and ready to hang out with the gorillas. We were teamed up with 6 others, and given an informative and humorous talk by who was going to take us to the gorillas - a man named Obed. Obed informed us of many fun facts. Such as, there are only 706 silverback mountain gorillas left in the world, with 320 of them in the Bwindi forest. They are the worlds most endangered ape. Our group was going to be trekking the Rushoga gorilla family, a group of 17. The national park actually sends out trekkers early in the morning who knew where the gorilla family was last night, so they start at that point and follow the tracks to find out where the gorillas are that morning. Obed told us we may have to hike all day to find them, or it could take 10 minutes. Good thing Rob and I ate a hearty breakfast, because we had to hike a rough 30 minutes before we were with the gorillas. No complaining here - it was amazing, to say the least.

Just to enter the forest to trek the gorillas, you pay a 500 USD permit fee per person. That said, you are thinking... this better be worth every penny. It turns out it is definitely worth it. It's hard to describe the surreal environment in which we are SO close to these beautiful gorillas just living their daily life. The first ones we ran across were a mama with her kiddo and toddler near. The two young gorillas, apparently 3 and 1 years old, were good old-fashioned rough-housing. They were playing and pushing each other over, making funny noises and slapping their chests, which means -- I'm stronger than you! These two little gorillas were the perfect mirror image of two other gorillas I know... Rob and Chris Kilcup. Wrestling.  The only difference is that these gorillas were in this amazing rain forest, and Rob and Chris are usually in their parents' living room. I couldn't believe that the gorillas, especially the mom, were totally fine with us just being there. They were within a few feet of us, and we even had to scoot back to give them some room. It's important that we don't get too close for too long, as the guides informed us that one of the reasons for some gorillas dying could be from human diseases. The guidelines say you are not supposed to be within 7 meters of the gorillas, but our guide was cool and let the gorillas near us. We had to sign-off that we did not have colds/ apparent sickness before we entered the forest.

Shortly after the gorilla play-time, we stumbled across the big daddy. Mr. Silverback. He was huge, and his silver hair on his back is indicative of his age -- estimated to be in his 40s. Their lifespan is generally up to 50 years old, according to Obed. This guy was was so cool. Imagine an enormous mountain gorilla, yet with a serene and relaxed personality. He was like -- no big deal, welcome to my home! Incredible to be so near, about 5 to 7 feet. Truly. The gorillas are very comfortable around humans. It really felt like we could have pulled up some chairs and just chilled with them all day.

Another highlight with them was when the entire family crossed a river. Some of them chose to cool off, and hop, jump and meander across the river. Others clearly did not want to mess up their hair or take a dip, so they took the vine-route. These apes just climb up the trees and have a grand-time swinging from branch to vine until they are safe to the other side. All the while, we are just beneath them in awe.

So, big thanks to Charlie and his machete for clearing the way during our trek... and to Obed for his expertise and bright-spirit. After 90 minutes we had to call it a day, as they prefer that the humans aren't around them for too long. After our egg-sandwich and pineapple lunch, we hopped back in Geoffrey's landcruiser to bounce our way on the rocky roads towards Tanzania. Driving through this area of Uganda, despite the bumpy ride, is stunning. Rolling mountains covered with plaintain trees, tea plantations and the bright colors of the country is really quite beautiful.

And that wraps up our time in Uganda. I always dreamed of going back there, and my heart is still so glad that we did. Plus, we have a new friend Geoffrey, that we get to welcome to our home later this year. Uganda is full of joy, strength and soul. The people love God and love eachother. Community is rich in love. The tastes, sounds, smells and heat of Uganda seems to be a part of me in a small way. From my dear friends in Ibulanku, to the waves of the nile, and into the forest with the gorillas... Uganda is Beauty. Webalee Uganda for the country that you are.